How to protect your natural skin barrier

Firstly, it’s important to get a hang of the terminology. Dermatologists often compare the structure of the skin barrier to a wall, and this can be helpful imagery. Picture individual skin cells, held together by a lipid membrane — just like bricks and mortar. And it's this structure that makes the skin barrier such an important part of your complexion.

The 'bricks' are corneocytes (a scientific name for the cells that make up most of the outer layer of the skin). They’re packed with keratin and other natural moisturisers. Meanwhile, the lipid layer contains ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Together, they create the stratum corneum — a fragile layer that protects our organs and supports overall health.

Put simply, the skin barrier plays a vital role in balancing your skin function by keeping moisture in and aggressors like free radicals out.

What’s the acid mantle?

Another term you may not be familiar with is acid mantle. It describes the thin film of sebum and sweat that lies on the skin's surface. Although it doesn’t sound overly inviting, that’s really its whole purpose. This extra layer of protection prevents bacteria from penetrating your skin, and its slight acidity is essential for preserving the structural integrity of the epidermis — and for preventing infection.

Effectively, the acid mantle is the first line of defence for skin barrier protection. So, it's essential to be aware of any elements that can damage it and how you can repair and replenish it. For example, harsh soaps and cleansers can increase the skin's pH balance, sending it out of equilibrium. It’s a delicate boundary, so to keep it in check, your best bet is to gently sweep away dirt and makeup without disrupting the pH — our Cleansing Micellar Water is perfect for this.

The ideal pH for your skin’s acid mantle is around 4.7 and, interestingly, skincare experts think this acidity may be a key part of slowing down the ageing process. 

So it makes sense to know how to protect your skin barrier with gentle cleansing and plant-based oils like our nutrient-rich Superfood Facial Oil.

Your skin barrier and acid mantle face a barrage of threats daily, including harsh chemicals, overdry or humid environments and environmental pollutants — and don’t discount genetic factors. Even our mental health can have an impact.

If you’re a skincare maven, ensure that you use products including retinoids, alpha and beta hydroxy acids and fruit acids carefully. These ingredients are brilliant for reducing fine lines and dull or dry skin, but when used in excess, can lead to irritation. Always take a look at the advice we offer on our product pages so you know how and when to use your products effectively.

Harsh cleansers and over-exfoliation are other culprits that can take a toll on skin barrier protection. To avoid over-exfoliating, try out our Pro-Collagen Tri-Acid Peel — perfect for applications of up to twice a week without compromising your skin’s natural protective barrier.

Other environmental aggressors, including pollution and direct sunlight, can also spell trouble for the delicate balance of your skin barrier. And be aware of lifestyle factors, like disrupted sleep and excess stress as these can also impact your skin’s health. 

Anything that overwhelms your skin can cause your skin barrier function to become impaired. Due to this, your damaged skin barrier allows those irritants to penetrate your skin, causing moisture loss — leaving your epidermis vulnerable to damage.

So how do you know if your skin barrier is damaged? A healthy epidermis is generally smooth and flake-free. There’s no tightness or redness after cleansing or using skincare products, and you don’t experience itching or other reactions.

Identifying a weakened skin barrier depends on several factors. Using the wrong skincare products can damage skin and strip it of valuable nutrients. At Elemis, we may include beneficial fatty alcohols, like Cetyl, but these emollients help retain moisture.

Over-cleansing and exfoliating can also disrupt the acid mantle and expose your skin to damage. If your skin is already sensitive, you'll need to take extra care of your skin barrier protection routine.

And don’t dismiss growing older as a factor. As we age, the production of the natural hydrators, ceramides and lipids that are part of the skin barrier begin to slow down, leaving our skin more vulnerable to environmental aggressors.

A complexion that feels tight and dry or seems to be flaky suggests that your natural skin barrier isn't performing as it should. You may also experience itchiness or bouts of irritation if so. A simple touch test will suffice to see if the texture has changed. If your skin feels rough and bumpy, this is another sure sign that your skin barrier protection has broken down.

Fortunately, repairing any dryness and discomfort is relatively straightforward. The trick is to focus on products that hydrate the skin and balance pH levels for healthy and glowing results.

To support skin barrier function, try a simplified skincare routine that works for you. You can't stop your skin barrier from reacting to external factors, but knowing how to protect your skin barrier with the right products will get things back on track when your acid mantle goes kaput.

Before you do anything else, you need to simplify your routine. Start by stripping everything back to basics to identify the triggers that are giving you problems.

The good news is that you can repair your skin barrier quite quickly, but only if you're prepared to take your routine back to basics. Start by identifying your skin type using our Virtual Skin Analysis tool. Then use the By Concern search bar to uncover the perfect products to rebalance your skin. Stick to ingredients your skin barrier will love. Taking small steps is the best way to reclaim healthy, baby-soft skin.

Exfoliate gently

Try a delicate exfoliator like our Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads. Formulated with probiotic ferment complex and lactic acid, they accelerate the skin's natural cell turnover, helping to repair a compromised skin barrier.

Embrace nourishing plant oils

Nourishing plant oils are another highly effective addition to your routine when your skin barrier needs a helping hand. Research suggests that plant oils have a role in repairing the epidermis and preventing moisture loss. 

Our soothing Pro-Collagen Rose Facial Oil contains a trifecta of oils that can be beneficial in repairing the skin barrier — moisturising and antioxidant jojoba, soothing almond oil packed with vitamin E and anti-inflammatory coconut oil. A few drops applied morning and evening after gentle cleansing will soon have your skin feeling petal-soft.

We'd also recommend our remarkable, easy-to-open Skin Bliss Capsules that contain potent facial oils packed with antioxidants. They work tirelessly to rejuvenate your skin while eliminating the buildup of pore-clogging toxins. Our morning capsule, enriched with moisturizing Rose Absolute, not only nurtures and softens your skin but also kickstarts your day with a refreshing burst of hydration. Meanwhile, our evening capsule, infused with the soothing essence of Lavender, becomes your overnight ally, helping to repair and fortify your skin as you sleep. 

Pay attention to product pH

Simplifying your skincare also means paying attention to ingredients and other actives. If in doubt, opt for gentle products for sensitive skin, like our soothing Sensitive Soothing Milk Moisturiser with bisabolol complex to protect against daily skin aggressors.

So what are the ingredients your skin barrier craves? If you want to know how to protect your skin barrier, start here:

Humectants

Top of our list of skin barrier protection ingredients are humectants. Actives like hyaluronic acid and glycerin act to draw in and hold moisture, binding it to the skin barrier. Whilst they won't repair the skin barrier on their own, they can act to hydrate the epidermis before locking in that moisture with an occlusive cream or oil.

To improve the skin's moisture content, try Pro-Collagen Marine Moisture Essence formulated with our next-generation Flash Filler Hyaluronic Acid, or the ultra-lightweight Pro-Collagen Rose Micro Serum with a unique oil-in-serum formula that’s clinically proven to keep your skin hydrated for 72 hours.

Occlusives

Unlike humectants that draw moisture into the skin, occlusives prevent moisture loss by creating a barrier on your skin. They're ideal for skin barrier protection because they mimic the action of the lipid layer in your epidermis. This family of ingredients includes plant oils, plant butters like shea and coconut, and petrolatum, which has been found to block up to 99% of moisture loss.

Emollients

Emollients are another essential for supporting skin barrier function. And they're a go-to when your skin is feeling dry and irritated. Emollients can generally be used several times a day or whenever your skin needs a hit of moisture. Unlike barrier-forming occlusives, emollient creams and lotions work to fill any gaps between skin cells to support skin barrier function.

Emollients tend to feel silkier and more luxurious on the skin. This family of ingredients includes plant oils, lanolin and oatmeal. Several actives, including waxes, lanolin and petrolatum, are both occlusive and emollient, offering superior skin barrier protection.

For some of us, however, occlusives can feel thick and heavy on the skin. By contrast, lightweight emollient facial oils from our Pro-Collagen collection soothe, smooth and regenerate, leaving your skin feeling nourished and replenished.

Your skin is important, especially when it comes to protecting you against everyday environmental aggressors and sun damage. So, to keep it functioning at its best, your skin barrier deserves products that soothe, moisturise and balance your pH for optimal results.

If your skin barrier needs a boost, we recommend creating a gentle cleansing and moisturising routine with products from our Balanced Skin collection. Packed with essential oils and actives like collagen and probiotics, these carefully curated products will help your skin barrier reestablish its equilibrium, leaving your skin hydrated and healthy. 

Start with our Sensitive Cleansing Wash or Clarifying Clay Wash, designed to cleanse, purify and balance skin prone to blackheads and blemishes. Next, purify, soothe and refresh with our alcohol-free Balancing Lavender Toner. This soothing and aromatic toner makes short work of rebalancing your skin's pH to reinforce the acid mantle.

Serum devotees will love our skin-balancing Clarifying Serum, with Willowherb Extract to soothe and Boldo Leaf Extract to improve skin clarity. Finally, lock in much-needed moisture with our award-winning Pro-Collagen Rose Marine Cream. This skincare hero firms, smooths and hydrates due to the exceptional properties of Padina Pavonica, an algae extract that stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid. Your skin will be hydrated and rejuvenated, and your skin barrier will thank you for the love and attention.

When it comes to skincare, skin barrier protection should be your number one priority. Trust ELEMIS to leave your skin feeling nourished, balanced and protected with innovative products that promote wellness. So, if you want to know how to protect your skin barrier, shop our Balanced Skin Collection today.